You can leave the top clamping screw just an teensy bit loose and still adjust the studs. The lockdown is again down with an allen but the inner screw simply clamps the top down tight against the bridge. You adjust height using the usual screwdriver slot at the top and both halves turn. The top "nut" is cammed to the lower stud (upper stud in photo). The second and current pair I tried are the Kaish studs, below. Also, the material doesn't appear to be very good steel.
I suspect it had already yielded previously and fatigued.
This "happened" while tightening the top down. I do a lot of automotive work and I'm very torque conscious. So rinse and repeat - and then break after a couple dozen adjustments due to the binding.Īnd no, I didn't "gorilla torque" them. Also, with the nut loose (required), the adjustment is a rough guess. Thin threaded "steel" section stresses from this, yields, fatigues, and eventually breaks. Unfortunately nut rebinds as you turn as it can/will turn too with the stud. When done, loosen strings, final tighten nut, final check. Loosen nut, adjust post/bridge height with allen, retighten nut. I chose these as they had a vintage/stock looking appearance. The first pair I tried were the type below. I tried two of the popularly available (I did this on inexpensive guitars, so inexpensive was the direction :- ). Solution: Locking studs! I suspect these also increase sustain. Issue: Wraparound bridges fit loosely on the bridge studs. Interested in other folks experience with locking studs of other types in terms of utility, ease of use, etc.īackground: Had a couple guitars with one-piece wrap-arounds.
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